mercato orientale genova

Markets are microcosms which reveal the deepest and truest identity of places. They are pivotal resources and assets (both socioeconomic and cultural) for tourism destinations, be they established or on the rise.
Supporting evidence abounds. When you think of Palermo, you can feel the energy of the Ballarò market, a whirl of swordfish sardines olives pumpkins cucumbers, as well as a feast of addictive finger food (octopus, stigghiole, vastedda ca’ meusa, panelle, cazzilli…); alternatively, you see yourself wandering around the Vucciria, a polychrome universe (the word market is something of an understatement) which also features in the famous 1974 painting by Renato Guttuso. Move to Rome and chase for spices in the Esquilino area. Explore Bologna, Verona and Padua and fall in love with the “mercati delle erbe” (i.e. herbs market). Discover Modena’s soul at the Mercato Albinelli, as you hunt for tortellini, zampone, Lambrusco, balsamic vinegar, nocino, crescentine…. Go cheese-hunting in Turin – there, Porta Palazzo is a treasure trove of Piedmont’s gourmet best (and that includes fish, too). Stroll around Barcelona’s Boqueria, a 1840 wrought-iron masterpiece located half-way along the Rambla at number 91 (close to the underground station), where you will enjoy scrumptious tapas. Do not miss Covent Garden, – the very heart of London – once a Benedictine convent (complete with vegetable garden), its neoclassical arches elegant and formal. The scenting suq in Marrakech, the vastest traditional Berber market is a profusion of fruit, incense and spices. And what about the renowned fish market in Tokio, surrounded by tiny shops and eating joints: built at the beginning of the 17^th century, at dawn it is animated by the clangour of auctions and tuna wholesalers – the prelude to that kaleidoscope of colours and flavours which we (roughly) summarize in the word sushi.

Back to Italy, the Mercato Orientale, located in the lively central district of Genoa, provides further proof as for the storytelling potential of markets. The most celebrated food market of the Superba since the late-19th century, nowadays it is gaining a fresh reputation as a laboratory of tourism innovation thanks to a flagship pilot initiative focused on “pesto tourism”. The iconic fare of the Ligurian capital – challenging tomato sauce for the coveted top spot as the world’s n. 1 sauce – is the protagonist of a project designed by tourism expert Luisa Puppo (Ligucibario®) and targeted to Italian and foreign gourmet travellers. Pesto tourism is conjugated in a variety of declinations, including events, conferences and also an experiential tour (“Pesto Calling”) marketed by the Artès group.

The exploration of the market and its surroundings is structured through “Genoese for a day” hands on experiences (click here for further details): shopping for the best pesto ingredients, taking the advice of stallowners (and bystanders) in order to pick the first-quality garlic, Italian pine nuts, coarse sea salt, basilico Genovese DOP, Parmigiano reggiano DOP (aged 24 months), Fiore sardo DOP (aged 10-12 months) and, last not least, EVO, the gem of the DOP Riviera Ligure; selecting the fittest utensils, i.e. marble mortar and wooden pestle, in an old traditional kitchenware shop; learning how to taste pesto like a pro and decide on the best wine matchings guided by a food and wine lecturer; and, last but not least, – improving mortar and pestle skills with the help of a pesto chef. If you want to earn more, click here.

fiona sims e il marito con luisa puppo e luca spanedda

The press officers of the Agenzia di Promozione Turistica “In Liguria” are actively promoting the pesto tourism project through their networks: it is no coincidence that, after hosting German travel journalist Annette Rübesamen in July, on September 25^th Luisa Puppo and the Mercato Orientale welcomed English food&wine journalist and blogger Fiona Sims, investigating Ligurian gastronomy for an article which will feature on “The Times”. Accompanied by Luisa Puppo and Mario Enrico, the president of the Consorzio Mercato Orientale , Fiona Sims toured the market for a desk (better still, stall) research on the aromatic profile of fresh Genoese basil, Parmigiano reggiano and Fiore sardo. Pesto chef and manufacturer Luca Spanedda (owner of “Eccellenza ligure”) joined at the Ostaja ex Guglie in via San Vincenzo to deliver Fiona Sims a solo pesto class complete with mortar and pestle. EVO tasting techniques were described by Alessandro Giacobbe on behalf of the Consorzio DOP Riviera Ligure.

fiona sims al mortaio sotto l’occhio premuroso di luca spanedda

Fiona Sims was introduced to the secrets of “pesto awareness”, a matter of history, rhytes and operational hints – e.g., going for mortars made with Colonnata marble (its surface appropriately rough), peeling garlic cloves (and getting rid of the bud, too), using coarse-grained salt and young small-leaved basil, adding scant) EVO only at the end and – first and foremost – keeping in mind that garlic and pecorino sardo represent the skeleton structure of pesto. Those who opt for blenders are to know that both container and blades are to be pre-cooled in the freezer to prevent basil oxidation from excessive heat.

The final traditional Ligurian lunch coordinated by Luisa Puppo displayed a selection of vegetable savoury pies, hearty minestrone Genovese, trenette with pesto, potatoes and green beans and a glass of Pigato, the pleasantly aromatic indigenous white wine from the Riviera di Ponente.

Hope you had a nice trip back home, Fiona – Genoa’s smile along with you!

Luisa Puppo

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Food and wine: Genoa and Liguria launch pilot experiential tourism project 

Which is the best way to safeguard local identity and traditional products? Year after year, article after article (as readers of Ligucibario know), my answer remains the same: clever, targeted promotion – I live in Liguria, a region where outstanding food&wine quality is often indirectly proportional to quantity – and awareness. Genoa itself is becoming more and more conscious of its potential as a Mediterranean capital, a first-class cultural and gourmet destination. This implies a broader concept of front line (each of us, business or individual, called to welcome visitors) and the availability of market-oriented products fit to meet the growing demand (domestic and international) for experiential tourism.
“Pesto calling”, the new gourmet project designed by tourism expert Luisa Puppo for Artès, turns these priorities into reality and offers lovers of Italian cuisine a “Genoese for a day” experience among traditions and ancient local lore. The experience (delivered by Luisa Puppo in Italian and in English) takes place in the very heart of Genoa, the sestiere di San Vincenzo, a lively district animated by specialty shops, restaurants and boutiques, not to forget about the protagonist of the project – the late-19th century Mercato Orientale, the city’s most renowned food market, a triumph of colours, scents and voices set in the former cloister of the Chiesa della Consolazione. Markets and botteghe (specialty shops) have always been excellent storytellers of places: coherently, the rules of effective storytelling supplies the structure of this tourism experience based on Genoa’s flagship fare, which challenges participants to celebrate a family reunion and reassemble Grandma Dina’s long lost recipe for pesto – i.e., find the right ingredients and proportions, the fittest mortar & pestle combination, the best wine matching and – last but not least – prepare and taste pesto. Coordinated by Luisa Puppo in the role of cousin Luisa, they carry out their task with the advice of stall holders – greengrocers, cheese mongers… – pesto manufacturers, wine and kitchenware shop owners, a food&wine expert (i.e. myself…) and passers-by. The accomplishment of their endeavour is celebrated a tavola , with a meal in an old osteria.

Planning of this pilot project was based on the participation of different private organisations – Ligucibario, the Consorzio Operatori Mercato Orientale, Ascom Confcommercio, Iscot Liguria and Artès– and the involvement of local public bodies, which enthusiastically adhere to the project, especially in terms of promotion and marketing. Gianni Berrino, the Assessore al Turismo of Regione Liguria, promoted the presentation conference of the project in April. The press officers of Agenzia di Promozione Turistica “In Liguria” are promoting the project through their networks: German travel journalist Annette Rübesamen had her pesto tour on July 26^th and was personally welcomed by Paola Bordilli, the Assessore al Turismo e Commercio of the Municipality of Genoa, who is currently working at the valorisation of markets and expressed her appreciation for this pilot initiative.
Annette put herself to the test with live shopping, choosing the ingredients (basilico genovese DOP, Vessalico garlic, Pisa pine nuts, coarse sea salt, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP 24 mesi, Fiore Sardo DOP 12 mesi, extra virgin olive oil monocultivar taggiasco) with the precious guidance of stall owners Mario Enrico, Franco Trentin and pesto chef Luca Spanedda, who guided her in a solo pesto class. The Family Sola Enoteca provided advice (not to forget guided tastings) on DOC white Ligurian wine – a feast of Pigato and Vermentino. The astounding diversity of traditional regional kitchen utensils was presented by “Aimi ferramenta”, a treasure trove for food lovers. Cristina Parisi of the Ostaja-ex Guglie in via San Vincenzo planned for Annette a menu based on a selection of vegetable savoury pies, chick-pea farinata, cheese focaccia and trenette al pesto (complete with potatoes and green beans).
“Pesto Calling” features in the catalogue (https://artes2italy.com/vip-edition-pesto-calling/ )  proposed by Artès to tour operators and travel agencies.
This new project belongs to Ligucibario’s operational areas: traning (thousands hours), the drafting of the  “alfabeto del gusto”, an exhaustive on line atlas of Ligurian and Mediterranean food&wine, 15 volumes on regional food and wine history, 68 videos (YouTube) and – last but not least – 250 events (conferences, guided tastings , lectures…). That is why, needless to say,  I am against the use of low-quality oil in pesto and lard in focaccia.
Arrivederci, Annette and my dear readers, from Umberto Curti. These late July days are hot, yet agreeable, thanks to conviviality and cultural exchange. Best wishes from Genoa, a world talking with the world.

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